Monday, August 31, 2015

Keys

I have observed that the end of an adventure, and the beginning of a new one, usually begin with keys.  Returning keys or obtaining a new set seem to spark the beginning of a new era.  About a week ago, I made my first trip to Tetovo since I arrived for PST in order to visit my future site.  During this trip, I was twice offered keys- one set for the apartment in which I will live, the other for the office of AIESEC Tetovo.

Even though it has almost been a full two years since I have been in Tetovo, walking around the town evoked memories of my first week in the country.  The main street seemed new to me until I recalled that it was under major construction during our arrival.  I remembered where I ate each of my meals when I was in town, saw the Painted Mosque for the second time, and recalled the Vero where I made my first purchase (caffeine and Haribo gummy bears) and learned that it was the location to jump on kombis heading to the nearby villages.  Moving to a new site can be alienating, but the moment of my first return was one of reminiscence instead.

 I arrived the night before my meeting in order to meet the AIESEC Macedonia President and the former Specialized Unit President on time.  The town was teeming with young people and families walking the main street, drinking coffee and tea in cafes, etc.  I enjoyed my first Turkish tea for quite some time and relished the realization that I will soon be able to drink Turkish tea whenever I liked.  Kelly, a fellow MAK 18, showed me around Tetovo and was a superb host in terms of preparing me for the half year ahead.

In the morning, I made my first commute to work, walking along the main boulevard to the kombis parked near the Painted Mosque.  I panicked when I discovered that the kombi did not take me to the entrance of Southeast European University, only to later discover that it was only a five-minute walk from where I was delivered.  The campus was also very beautiful and looked nothing like the public universities in Macedonia.  Unfortunately, I was unable to meet officially with the administration that works closely with AIESEC Tetovo, but we learned enough from our visit to move forward with the recruitment strategy for AIESEC Tetovo.

While I was offered the two sets of keys, I politely turned them down- at least momentarily.  Logistically, both the former SUP and the PCV living in my future apartment may need those sets of keys during the time of my absence.  But I was also not ready yet to accept that my time in Prilep is ending, and that my adventure in Tetovo is about to begin.  Today is also a major turning point for me and other PCVs in my group.  Tomorrow, September 1, officially marks the first day of school, summoning all TEFL teachers for a more scheduled work week.  This day also marks the last day of my term as a member of the Executive Board of AIESEC Prilep.  Finally, this past weekend many of the MAK18s celebrated the first and early COS of one of the PCVs in our group, portending what all of us will eventually do.

It is not that I am not ready for a change or dread leaving the life I know.  In fact, I am excited to begin my six month extension.  Rather, the moment just did not seem right to make the shift mentally.  Who knows when it will feel right- when the MAK20s arrive, when work picks up with AIESEC Tetovo, tomorrow? I am trying my best to live with one foot in the present and another in the future, cognizant that one day I will have to walk through that door

Friday, August 21, 2015

COS Conference

In a way it felt like PST again, except that Peace Corps was preparing us for our move back to the States instead of preparing us for our cultural journey in Macedonia.  COS (Close of Service) Conference was an emotional, information-packed set of days that, like the rest of our service, passed by too quickly.

From August 12-14, the MAK18 group met in Berovo at the Aurora Resort for the COS conference.  The main idea behind the conference is to prepare all of the volunteers for their return to the States, and how to best say goodbye to those we consider friends and family in Macedonia.  As the agenda below shows, the conference prepared us for reverse culture shock, how to conceptualize and share our experience with friends and family back home, and how to say farewell to those we met here.  In a practical sense, it also explained how we close our bank accounts in Macedonia, how to write our description of service, which options we have for medical insurance for when we return, and which resources are available for us in regards to graduate education and employment. 


The conference began with an exciting raffle for most of our group.  Even though our official COS date is November 28, volunteers in Macedonia are able to draw from a lottery, allowing them to COS for up to a month before the official date.  Thus, 15 or so volunteers drew from a pot to choose when they would return home.  Volunteers then have the option of letting Peace Corps pay for their ticket home, or to receive about $1300 to arrange their own travel.  Before officially COSing (and getting on that plane), volunteers are also required to be in the PC office three days before their departure, in order to close all of their accounts, verify their medical status, etc.  It is because these three days involve a lot of administrative work that Peace Corps Macedonia segments the COS process for all of its volunteers.  If each volunteer COSed on the same date, you can imagine how stressful it would be for the staff (especially since it would fall in the middle of PST)!

In a group of about 32 remaining PCVs, only 15 drew for COS dates because so many are either extending or continuing their service until December since they will be PST trainers.  According to the Country Director, our group has the highest number of extending volunteers among MAK groups, with 9 PCVs extending for a full year and three (including me) for 6 months. Thus, we were omitted from the lottery and were asked to put our memories into “full gear” so that we can use all of the information for the next year when we actually COS (year-long extendees will likely not be able to attend another COS conference). 

Otherwise, a lot of information was presented to help us “move on” from our service and prepare for life after Peace Corps.  For example, we learned that we are covered for medical insurance for one month after our COS date (with an option to pay for and extend that care for two additional months).  We also learned about Non-Competitive Eligibility, which for one year allows us to skip some processes of the hiring process when applying for federal jobs (it seemed natural, yet uncanny, that the Youtube video hyperlinked and that we watched during the conference, is hosted by BJ who started our PC experience in DC during Staging).  And of course, Peace Corps reminded us to return to them our heaters, fire extinguishers, and all other safety or household items.

Part of the conference was also geared to prepare us for reverse culture shock.  While many of us have integrated over the past two years, we will soon need to lose that integration so that we can adapt back to life in the States.  Of course, reverting back to a culture is easier than learning a new one, but nonetheless requires time for adjustment.  Based on my short trip back to Chicago this past winter, I can say that some things will be tough to adjust to.  My mannerisms have become much less polite, since social interaction in Macedonia is overall more “efficient”.  For example, I remember the day in January before returning back to Macedonia when my parents were ordering Chinese food, and I asked them to “Give me beef with broccoli”.  My stepfather told me to ask politely, saying “please”, and I quickly realized how differently and casually we order food in Macedonia.  Additionally, we learned from PCVs who had already returned to the States once (and are either currently working in Macedonia or serving again as PCV Response volunteers) that, beyond a certain point, people really don't care about how we spent our service here.  It became clear that some of our closest family and friends from home will only be able to listen to so much about our experience here before we bore or annoy them.  Understandably, these people will not be invested in hearing about our experiences because they have not experienced it themselves.  But many of us will be lucky to be near other PCVs in order to compare and relate our individual stories.

Arriving in Berovo
 
Excited!

Aurora Resort
Some crafts during COS 



Ready to play some American football
with a seventh player on the field...







Dance party
COS conference was also one of our last opportunities to hang out as a MAK18 group.  We were lucky to have the conference in Berovo, which marked a luxurious end to our 27 months in Peace Corps.  Aurora Resort is located in the mountains near Berovo, just next to a reservoir and dam. Even though the day was filled with sessions, we had opportunities in the mornings and evenings to run the nearby trails or to swim in the infinity pool.  The climate in Berovo is usually quite cooler than the rest of Macedonia, so nightly swims are a bit brisk.  Thus, a few of us decided on Thursday night to warm up for our swim while playing some American football.  Just as we were about to begin our game, a colt (not the Indianapolis kind, but an equine creature) decided to graze/ run around with us on the field.  Also, a few of us spent the first night gazing at the stars as a meteor shower glittered the night sky.  Even at the end of our service, we were creating lasting memories.

There were also parts of the conference that encouraged us to reflect on our own memories and experiences.  One of the most emotional sessions asked us to relate our “highs and lows” of Peace Corps service to the rest of our group.  A few volunteers broke down and shed tears for tough times or for people that they will miss when they return from service.  During our last session, our country director gave a final speech, but did so crying herself (I am not sure how she would feel about me sharing this on my blog, but hopefully she does not find out).  However, her tears were a sincere indication of the investment and love she has for our group.  She arrived in Macedonia during the middle of our training, and one of the first things she did as a PC Country Director was swear us in as volunteers.  Thus, her journey here was parallel to ours.  I doubt I will ever have a boss/ supervisor that will cry for us like our country director did, and it is with the utmost gratitude that we have a country director that cares so much about Peace Corps Macedonia.


Honestly, COS conference was an emotional experience for me.  I left Berovo with a lot on my mind, both reflecting on the past 2 years, thinking about the remainder of my service here, and on my life after Peace Corps.  COS conference was also the first time where I sort of “panicked” and thought, “Holy moly!  I am staying here for 6 months longer than many of my friends!”  In time, the work ahead will quickly overcome that reaction, but it was tough discussing about the end of service when I still have an autumn, winter, and spring in Macedonia ahead of me.  But I have come away from COS appreciating a great two years behind me, shared with an awesome group of Americans I never knew I could love so much.

MAK18s

Monday, August 17, 2015

My Last Group Vacation- Kosovo


Kosovo may not seem like the perfect vacation for anybody, especially for Americans.  But on August 7-9, a bunch of Americans decided to take one of our last (for me, my last) vacation with each other before most of us COS.  Kosovo may not offer much (it was a war zone only about 15 years ago), and the only tourist attraction most Americans know about when they think of Kosovo is the Bill Clinton statue in Prishtina.  However, for a group of Americans with a low number of vacation days, little time in the summer, low funds near the end of our service, and a craving for some typical American dishes, Prishtina was the perfect destination for some bonding time before we split.

Some History
Many people my age have an idea of what the Kosovo issue was but may not know the full story until doing a bit more research.  When I was younger, I remember hearing about the conflict on the news, but I had no idea from what the violence stemmed, who was fighting whom and why, or why the United States and NATO were involved.  As I mentioned in many previous posts, the conflict in Kosovo stemmed from the breakup of Yugoslavia, much of it a reaction of a large influx of Albanians in Kosovo.  I am still not sure why Albanians eventually became the majority in the territory, but some resources online suggest that the demographic change shifted during the Ottoman times.  If this is the case, Kosovo became part of Yugoslavia (and not a part of Albania) most likely due to its historical significance to the Serb people (the Serbs’ loss to the Ottomans in 1389 brought about Ottoman rule until that Empire’s breakup). 

However, during the breakup of Yugoslavia, Kosovo’s Albanian population boomed (to over 80% in the 1990s), and under Milosevic their rights within Kosovo were limited, putting them at disadvantage for employment, basic human rights, and reducing some of the regional government’s autonomy in Kosovo.  Despite these issues, Kosovo did not deteriorate into turmoil during the war among Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia.  However, according to Samantha Power’s “A Problem from Hell”, NATO’s hesitation to intervene militarily in Bosnia encouraged Serbia to invade Kosovo and to drive about 1 million people from their homes.  NATO reacted immediately in 1999 by bombing parts of Yugoslavia (see my previous post on visiting Belgrade).  Kosovo was liberated, and although many Albanian Kosovars returned to Kosovo, the Serbian invasion forced many to flee to neighboring Albania and Macedonia and remain there instead. 

Experiencing Prishtina
Seeing the other side of the conflict in Belgrade, experiencing the Albanian culture in Sarandë, and hearing about Kosovo from Macedonians here, I was always interested in experiencing Prishtina myself.  A British bloke who we once met in Prilep told us that Prishtina was his favorite city of all those he visited in the Balkans.  His reasoning is predicated on misfortune- many countries do not recognize the Kosovo passport (or Kosovo as a republic), so the youth in Kosovo are often unable to leave their country.  Therefore, Prishtina is an amazingly fun and young city at night.  As we discovered, scores of people fill the main boulevard (Mother Theresa street) on summer nights, and after midnight many catch a taxi with their friends to ride to the outskirts of the capital where all of the clubs are located.

There were many buses to Prishtina, and on Friday we took a 3-hour bus from Skopje to Prishtina to arrive at Han hostel.  On the way to the hostel, I decided to try out my Albanian with the taxi driver.  I tried to keep the conversation simple, mostly because I am only halfway through the Albanian language book, and I still cannot use any of the past tenses (I often joke, “Do or do not.  There is no did”).  After confirming with the driver that the hostel was far from the bus station, he continued to ask me a whole bunch of questions, none of which I could decipher clearly.  I managed to tell him that two of us in his car were Americans, while the other two were Germans who were sharing a cab.  He then proceeded to speak in German with the other passengers, since he worked there for some time, and I let the conversation slide.

Reunited at the hostel, we proceeded to B-line for Sabaja, an American-owned pub that serves bacon cheeseburgers and craft beers (including IPAs).  Since most beers in the Balkans lack a strong infusion of hops in their beers, drowning ourselves in IPAs, made cheaper by the Happy Hour, quenched a long-standing craving. While sitting at the bar, a few Peace Corps volunteers serving in Kosovo serendipitously ran into us, and we continued to compare our Peace Corps experiences.  I was able to speak with one volunteer who was also interested in foreign service and continuing her ambitions by pursuing graduate school immediately after her service, and from our conversation I was able to finally decide on 3-4 schools that I will apply to through the course of this autumn.  We followed the Kosovo PCVs around Prishtina before ending up at a cheaper restaurant that served typical kafana foods and low-priced beers and rakija.  After eating a mediocre Shopska salata, we decided to call it quits and head back to the hostel.


It was a red kind of day
Despite waking early on Saturday to explore Kosovo, a few of us PCVs took a couple of hours to get ready before we finally left the hostel.  Even though we departed at 11AM, the Mediterranean restaurant at which we wanted to eat was closed, so I chowed down on a doner while others filled their bellies with a chicken Parmesan sandwich.  We then decided to drink coffee and people watch for a few hours as we waited for an RPCV who once served in Prilep and currently worked in Prizren.  From there we did a blitzkrieg of sight-seeing through Prishtina, seeing the new Mother Theresa cathedral, the main library, the Bill Clinton Statue, and then returning to, you guessed it, Sabaja.  At night, we chilled again with the PCVs from Kosovo in their rented apartment and played some games. 


Prishtina was neither overwhelming or underwhelming, but a nice Balkan capital with friendly people (especially towards Americans).  I think what really made this trip for me was the ability to spend one last weekend alone with some of my closest friends from Peace Corps.  The trip made me ponder what our lives would be like when we return to the States, and how much of our relationship we can keep intact despite being reunited with our past friends and living far from each other.  It was also a small preview of COS conference, which was recently held in Berovo on August 12-14.

On our way to explore the city
But Dave was leading us and got us lost
Skanderbeg 



Chick-Parm-San






Dave and statue #1

Main Library



Dave and statue #2

Inside the Mother Theresa Cathedral 

Stacioni i trenit


A Sith Lord's temple
Sabaja Beers


Red Rain- A 1 Euro Energy Drink made by Royal Crown
Chilling with the Kosovo PCVs