Friday, February 21, 2014

A Visit from the South

The Republic of Macedonia received an official visit from a Greek official this week.  It has been almost nine years since a Greek official has visited the Macedonian government to continue the discussions on the name issue.  As I was watching the evening news, my host mother found it humorous that the Greek Deputy Prime Minister flew into "Alexander Makedonski" Airport and was staying at the "Aleksander Makedonski" hotel in Skopje.

Despite this recent visit, it does not seem like much has been accomplished so far.  However, as many followers of the Israel-Palestine issue can contend, getting the two parties to meet is often a significant first step.  So, if you are interested in reading an article about the new sets of negotiations, please refer to the link below.

http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/article/venizelos-macedonia-must-boost-friendliness-with-neighbors

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Warming Up

Luckily, I have been very busy with my organization since our seminar in Ohrid, but that means that I have had less time to write for this blog.  Despite being busy, there really is not too much to report.  Below I have posted a few of the minor updates that have taken place over the past two weeks.

Go Clean
Last Monday, my counterpart called me out of the blue and requested that I head to the capital the next day to work on the project “Go Clean”.  After attending the small ceremony for the project at the Delegation of the EU in Skopje, I met with the NGO and discussed implementing the project in Prilep.  Basically, Go Clean hopes to promote the recycling of batteries in the municipality while educating high school youths on conservation approaches in Macedonia.  A team of AIESECers and I plan to meet with the municipality within the next week to discuss the plan and encourage students to apply for the leadership program of Go Clean.



Saint Tryphon
As those of you in the States celebrated St. Valentine’s Day on February 14, we in Macedonia were able to celebrate another saint, Saint Tryphon (Свети Трифон).  Saint Tryphon is the patron saint of gardeners and wine growers (along with Saints Respicius and Nympha, but nobody cares about them).  My host father, along with some others, went out to their vineyards, cut a part of the vine and tossed it to the floor, and poured wine on the ground in order to summon a good harvest in the future.  Even though I did not join my host father to the fields, I later hung out with the French EVS volunteers and drank wine with them.  My spite for St. Valentine’s Day is pretty significant, and I reveled in the fact that when I sat at home and drank wine by myself on that day in years past, I was unknowingly celebrating Saint Tryphon!

For more info, Wikipedia- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tryphon_of_Campsada

Celebrating Doug’s Birthday
One of our site mates, Nick, had his 31st birthday on Sunday.  He tried to keep it secret from us, but we organized a small BBQ at the other Nick’s place.  It was a beautiful day, and the temperature reached its peak at 62 degrees F.  I do not remember the last time I could be dressed comfortably outside in a t-shirt in the middle of February.  Halfway through the BBQ, Nick (Bday boy) mentioned that he did not like the nickname we agreed upon for him (Doug) in order to distinguish him from the other Nick.  So, now we have returned to calling the Nicks by their first names, reintroducing confusion into our group.

Grilling burgers in February!


Happy Birthday, Nick!

Marko’s Tower
Near my homestay there is a mountain that holds the ruins of an old fortress called Marko’s Tower.  Given the beautiful weather, I decided to run up to the top of the mountain for my first visit to the ancient site.  Unfortunately, since I was running, I did not carry my camera, so I have no personal pictures to show.  However, the view of Prilep and the surrounding areas was gorgeous and clear.  I sat at the top for a few minutes to soak in the view.  As I sat there, the initial sentiments I felt when I started my Peace Corps experience had returned to me.  I was both calm and excited.  Sitting at the top was peaceful in a way, but I was also awed to recollect that I am a Peace Corps volunteer in a foreign country.  Sometimes I forget these facts, especially when I am preoccupied about making a difference in my community or fitting in with my host family, and especially when I am busy with work and stressed to come up with creative solutions to problems. 

Not my pic, stolen from one of the EVS volunteers. But the view of Prilep from Marko's Tower.


Overall, these experiences were a great reset on my time here.  And as the weather warms and spring approaches (I apologize to those still experiencing snow storms in the US), I am already looking forward to work harder and gain the most of my experience.  Like this weather, I am just warming up.

Friday, February 14, 2014

Lighting the Fire

Over the weekend, I attended a seminar in Ohrid called MILDS, or Macedonian International Leadership Development Seminar.  It was hosted by the larger branch of the organization I work with, AIESEC Macedonia.  In many ways, I was excited to attend the event to learn more about the organization and meet the members from AIESEC Skopje and AIESEC Tetovo.  I did not know that the seminar would be such an inspirational event.

For those of you who need a reminder about what my organization does, the main concept is that it supports leadership development in college students and provides opportunities to intern or volunteer abroad.  Each country has its own AIESEC branch (called a Member Committee), and from there cities start their own local branches (Local Committees) that usually operate out of a single university.  These LCs are led by an Executive Board which establishes internships or volunteer opportunities in its region, help local students find these same opportunities abroad, and train the members to be better leaders through seminars and by letting them lead projects.

I arrived late to the seminar on Thursday because I was taking the Foreign Service Officer Test in Skopje that day.  Therefore, when I arrived the sessions had already begun.  Yet, as I joined my the other members in my group, who were team leaders for projects in LC Skopje, they were excited to meet an American at the seminar.  The first session was led by an alumna of AIESEC Skopje, and much of what she discussed were about her experiences as a leader for the organization and her career afterwards.  As I listened to her speech, I noticed that all she mentioned, I already knew.  Following this session was the closing meeting for the seminar.  According to AIESEC, “all that happens at MILDS stays at MILDS”, so I cannot provide specifics of the meeting.  But basically, the practices seemed a bit cultish.  For example, there was a wish box where people can requests others to do something in front of the large crowd, punishments for breaking rules (some of which were raunchy), and a Doctor Love session.  Ending the night was a giant party, which started at 1:30AM and lasted until 4:30AM (with a scheduled meeting the next day at 9AM).

Given all that I experienced on the first day, I guess you could say that I was pretty skeptical about the whole seminar.  Was there really anything I could learn about leadership?  Wasn’t I too old for these cult-like practices?  And how am I going to function for the next 3 days with only 4 hours of sleep each night?  Despite these initial brooding thoughts, I figured that the seminar would not be futile because I had the opportunity to meet the leadership of AIESEC Skopje, who I will need to work with over the next two years.

Well, as the seminar progressed on the second day, I began to change my mind about the seminar.  Sure, many of the sessions presented information that I already knew.  Yet, the college students attending the event were learning something.  They were discussing how to be a leader, what the best practices are, and how to meet the challenges of Macedonia.  It soon became clear that I was watching these students transform.  These students, constrained by the practices of their small country, practices that are embedded in a history of foreign domination, struggle for a national identity, Communism, and corrupt politics, were discovering a new way to lead their country and their lives.  They were learning to lead and serve at the same time.  Many Peace Corps volunteers work for two years to make minimal change on the mindset of an organization, school, or municipality, yet AIESEC is changing the way these students lead when their minds are impressionable and their passion is great.  Although AIESEC exists in countries that are larger or better off (it exists in over 120 countries, including the USA), it also has the ability to convince AIESEC Macedonia that despite living in a poor and small country, they can make a difference in their own lives and those across the globe.  It is without a doubt that I met some of the future leaders of Macedonia at this conference.

As day two came to a close, a fire was lit inside of me.  I was inspired to lead my group of students in Prilep to feel the same passion and to believe in the possibility to accomplish what they set their mind to.  Unfortunately, of the over 80 delegates who attended MILDS, only seven of us were from AIESEC Prilep and one was from Tetovo.  Therefore the majority of our members missed out on this experience, and the seminar was dominated by the members from AIESEC Skopje. 

The third day came and went, and I only became more inspired to work with AIESEC Prilep for the next two years.  However, right before the gala began, commemorating the end of the seminar, AIESEC Prilep called an impromptu meeting.  When I met the Executive Board in one of the hotel rooms, I arrived to see our president and my counterpart in tears.  They had terrible news to share- AIESEC Prilep had failed to meet its yearly objectives by the end of 2013, and if it did not meet its criteria by this November, it would no longer exist as an entity.  That means that it would lose its NGO status, the Executive Board would be dismantled, and AIESEC Prilep’s functioning parts will be controlled by AIESEC Skopje.  No wonder my counterparts were in tears- there was a chance that all that they had worked for would cease to exist in a year. And for me, if AIESEC Prilep no longer exists as an organization, I may no longer be able to work with the group and may be reassigned to another Peace Corps post.

Despite these fears, I was too confident to worry like them.  Inspired by the conference, I knew that my experience, the passion of AIESEC Prilep, and our accomplishments so far would get us through the year.  Not only will we meet the minimal requirements, but we will supersede them.  In a way, I feel like I am part of a Disney movie, acting as a coach that falls into a situation to turn things around.  AIESEC Prilep is where it is now because of the failures of past leaderships.  Its current fate is challenged by the leading committee AIESEC Skopje.  LC Skopje is not evil.  On the contrary, I really like all of the members that I met.  But I hope that by the end of the year, they will notice our accomplishments and have their faith restored in our committee.  And so, like Emilio Estevez in Mighty Ducks, or like the rag tag “Team Pup N’ Suds”, I must rally many of the members to get be inspired and turn AIESEC Prilep around.  In a way, AIESEC Prilep is all that the EB has to prove their leadership potential, and it was the organization that I was assigned to and that I have already invested my heart into.  So of course, if we fail, that will be terrible for all of us.  But since the circumstances have become dearer, there is no possibility to take it easy, and a fire has been lit under us.  Luckily, I thrive when working in crises.


So here we are now, preparing for the next months, which hold the fate of AIESEC Prilep.  We must send students on exchanges.  We must bring students here to work with an organization.  We must train our members to become great leaders.  In a way, MILDS was a microcosm of Macedonia.  The majority of the delegates were from AISESEC Skopje.  Skopje sucks up the young and ambitious, draining other towns and villages of their life force and potential.  AIESEC Macedonia is dominated by a group of young students who are all friends and former leaders of LC Skopje.  Macedonia is ruled by one party.  Only one delegate who attended MILDS was ethnically Albanian.  In Macedonia, Albanians and Macedonians hardly collaborate.  Yet, I can see that AIESEC Macedonia is beginning to change for the better.  Despite these issues, these students are bright and have the potential to change Macedonia and the world.  During MILDS 2016, I do not doubt that everything will change, and that change will be the beginning of a better Macedonia.

AIESEC Macedonia

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Sunday Things

So this past weekend I spent my time again in Bitola.  It is great to have this city so close, since I enjoy it so much and since I am called down to the city periodically for work.  I had planned to arrive on Saturday since I had arranged to interview a high school student who was applying to the University of Chicago.  When I told my counterpart that I would be in town, she told me to stay until Monday so that I could visit the radio station at the university.  Therefore, I enjoyed an extended visit to the City of Consuls.

This was the first time that I stayed at another host family’s home (since Dan’s homestay situation in Ohrid does not really count).  Ted was kind enough to host me for both nights, and his parents were very hospitable.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, Ted’s host father plays in a band (they do amazing Genesis covers), and art must run in the family since the mother paints, the son plays the drums, and the daughter sings.

Ted, DNM (who was visiting from Tetovo), and I took it easy on Saturday night.  I woke early on Sunday morning so that I could attend Catholic mass.  The only Catholic churches I know of in Macedonia are located in Bitola and Skopje, so it is difficult for me to attend mass on a regular basis.  However, I had agreed to attend mass with Cindy (who lives in Bitola) and we met just before mass started at 9AM.  The congregation was small, and about 20% of the people at this mass were nuns.  Regardless, it was a very nice service, and taking part in the Catholic service was a great way to experience something Western in Macedonia.  I assume that most of the congregation consisted of Croatians who were second or third generations in Macedonia, as the list of songs for the mass were written in the Latin alphabet (probably Serbo-Croatian).  However, the entirety of the mass (except maybe the songs) was completely in Macedonian, which can be added to the short list of languages in which I have experienced a Catholic service (which include Spanish, Ukrainian, Tagalog, Korean, Italian, and Malayalam). Also, luckily the day was a celebration of St. Blaine (St. Blazhe in Macedonia), so I had the opportunity to have my throat blessed, which I happily welcomed due to the upper respiratory diseases I have had recently.

Cindy and me after mass

Ted and DNM spent the rest of the day cooking and relaxing while I talked business with a few of my counterparts over Skype.  Additional volunteers arrived in Bitola in order to watch the Super Bowl game.  Hana, a volunteer living in a village near Bitola who had extended her service for a year, had offered to host PCVs interested in watching the game together.  Thus, we all met in Bitola to eat and drink before finally taking a few taxis to the village.  The Super Bowl was a big deal this year in Macedonia, since roughly 10% of the volunteers hail from Washington state, and it seems that the second largest group calls Colorado home.  Once we arrived at Hana’s, we indulged in Mexican dip, chicken wings, French fries, Jello shots, and other game-day goodies before kick off at 12:30AM local time.  Eventually, Seattle began to wallop the Broncos, which made for a very boring game.  This, combined with too much rakija, induced me into a deep sleep just before half time.  When the game was over (4AM), we called a few taxis and made our way back to Bitola.  Those from Seattle were happy for the win, while I was happy that I was able to enjoy enough sleep.

Hanging out in Bitola before the game