Sunday, September 29, 2013

Enough Said

This emotional roller coaster ride still continues.  Macedonia and the Peace Corps experience is simultaneously exhilarating and frustrating.  Luckily, I am able to end this night (and first full week in Lozovo) on a high note.  My host mother just called me a good son, and she brought me snacks while I study in my room.

But enough said!  I have ranted enough on this blog, and I am sure many of my family, friends, and those various strangers would rather see some pictures.  All of the following were taken in Lozovo over the past few days, and they are some of my favorite.  Enjoy!

Lozovo from the fields, taken during a run 
My host family's tobacco fields

Skopkso and walnuts

Our school in Lozovo.  Very prairie.

My host family's yard.  A copious amount of coffee is drunk here

My host family's house

Marshall Tito Road

The town bazar

Vineyards

An old mosque



The town's Orthodox church

Thursday, September 26, 2013

The Work Begins!


So the most enigmatic part of my Peace Corps experience is finally becoming clearer.  I have been placed with an organization for my practicum!  The foundation I am placed with during PST (Pre-Service Training) is called Fokus Foundation.  Fokus Foundation is a non-profit organization (NGO) that describes itself as “supporting local development and democracy based on good Municipal Governance and responsible citizens”.  The main website for the organization is written completely in Macedonian, so I am unable to share any official objectives or projects that the organization aims to accomplish.  However, provided in this post is a site that briefly describes the organization.  I also discovered other sites that describe some of its past projects, including: a movement to make the Veles municipality and surrounding municipalities GMO-free; “Project Pajamas” which raised donations to refurbish the pediatric department of the Veles Hospital; and “We, for our Community,” which organized public debates and workshops to further involve citizens in determining the municipal budget.

Throughout the next 8-9 weeks of PST, I will work with members of Fokus Foundation (as well as with Emily, another PCV in Lozovo) to practice and implement strategies and tools that we learn for Community Economic Development.  All of the skills I learn and practice will be useful once I am permanently placed with my NGO or municipal government after PST concludes.  My first visit to Veles is next Tuesday, so wish me good luck!  To read more about Fokus Foundation, please refer to the sites below.

Official Website- http://www.focus.org.mk

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Initial Stumbles


Many of my friends and family are aware that I love to run.  However, few know that I have struggled with my knees over the past three years.  Sometimes I stress a knee (usually the left) so badly that I am unable to run for a few days and am forced to rest.  I am aware that many of these injuries could be prevented if I slow down my pace and stretch often.  Yet I often resist because I want to push myself during each run!  I never like to slow down.  Either I carry my old pace, or I run faster.

A few days have already passed in Lozovo, and I can already say that this experience is an emotional roller coaster of an experience.   I have already had my ups and downs, much of which could be blamed on the chemical imbalances that accompany the initial stages of an adventure like this.

By the first day of classes in Lozovo, the adrenaline that once pumped through my blood was totally exhausted.  I was tired and felt out of place. All of the sleep I forfeited over the first week in Macedonia finally caught up to me.  Additionally, the language barrier between my parents and me was finally noticeable.  I finally felt out of my place and anxious for that initial euphoria I once had upon arriving in Macedonia.

After few days and a nice long nap, I can gladly say that I finally feel that I am integrating into my community and family well.  However, I hope to share some mistakes or mishaps that I have committed so far that stirred in me my first doubts as a Peace Corps volunteer.

      1.     Na Gosti- I will provide a more thorough post about “Na gosti” sometime later, but I do want to mention my first time going on “na gosti” in Macedonia.  Sunday was our first full day in Lozovo, and with a limited vocabulary, all of the Lozovo volunteers were clueless as to how we should interact with our new community.  For many of us, sitting around an observing was our only option.

      On Sunday, my host father and mother were busy working with the tobacco that they had reaped in the fields.  My host mother, Jagoda, had left for the larger town, Sveti Nikolai, to drop off my papers and register me with the local police.  She told me to remain at home and stay with my host father as he threaded tobacco.  Threading tobacco is a very solitary activity, and I was unable to participate beyond taking pictures of the process.  Luckily, our neighbors saw me and invited me over for a visit, or in Macedonian a “na gosti”.  I asked my father and he allowed me to visit them. 
 
      Our neighbors are also hosting a volunteer (Sarah), and they offered me grapes, coffee, and Rakija.  It was nice to talk with them and enjoy some Macedonian refreshments.  After about an hour, Sarah and I saw Dan (another PCV) walking with his host brother.  We asked Sarah’s family if we could join them for a walk, and they allowed us to leave.

     We were led to Dan’s host brother’s house where we were offered more Rakija.  By this point my head became a bit groggy, and the perfect mixture of sleepiness and alcohol compelled me to return home.  Upon my return, I did not see Jagoda and Ile, so I headed straight to bed for a quick nap.

      When I awoke, I saw that Jagoda and Ile were home.  I assumed that they had eaten lunch, as Ile was back to threading tobacco, and Jagoda was hanging up the laundry to dry.  They asked if I was hungry, and I asked in return if they had already eaten.  I thought that they replied that they had already eaten, so I told them that I preferred to eat outside to join their company instead of eating alone in the house.  Well, my message was definitely lost in translation, as Jagoda and Ile brought out all of the food and joined me for lunch.  Macedonians do not often eat a full meal outside since it could be rather cold.  I felt bad for napping and making them eat outside, but I made up for it by picking tobacco in their field later that day.

      2.     Dropping a Baby- As I posted earlier, Jagoda and Ile have an adorable grandson, Vedran, who is about a year old.  Vedran and his father come over often right before lunch for a visit and a walk.  During one of his visits, Vedran was interested in playing with me and my walnut (I found it outside of my school).  I let him play with it as a ball, and he would hold on to it as he waddles across the yard.  He is unable to walk on his own, so I held his hand and provided support.  He was walking back and forth just fine, until a member of my host family called for us and startled me a bit.  I looked over to convey that they had my attention, but as I turned my head, Vedran stumbled, slipped from my hand, and knocked his head on the concrete ground.  I was very ashamed, but Vedran’s father was very forgiving and understanding about the incident.

      3.     Makedonski Jazik- Luckily for me, my prior knowledge of Macedonian allows me to understand more than most volunteers.  I had studied a bit of Macedonian before I arrived, hoping to barely understand the language so that I may integrate into my community better.  I am by NO MEANS fluent, but I can usually convey simple thoughts and needs to my host family and neighbors. 

     Studying Macedonian before I left initially seemed like a great idea since Peace Corps had only taught us how to introduce ourselves, say “hello” and “goodbye”, and count to ten during our week of classes in Tetovo.  Once we arrived in Lozovo, I already noticed that my family and others were impressed with my knowledge.  While most other volunteers were responding to questions by yelling English words and flailing their hands, I was creating short, simple sentences, with minor hand flailing as well.

      Within a short amount of time, I noticed that my slightly advanced knowledge of Macedonian was not a major advantage.  Mistaking my knowledge for fluency, my family has never spoken as slowly and simply as other host families.  The expectations for me at home seem greater than most.

While my host family has no mercy for me, other families and their neighbors are often impressed with my language ability.  They speak slowly, and in return I understand more and can respond to their inquiries.  Thus I am able to carry conversations with others in Macedonian, which is impressive to the locals and rewarding for me.

Well, one does not need to study Freud to understand how this rewarding experience can affect my life at home.  One of the reasons why I wanted to “na gosti” with other families was to integrate myself into the community more quickly.  Of course the subliminal desire that drives me to “na gosti” with others is to continue to feel both rewarded and understood within my community.  Unfortunately, my family is unable to “na gosti” with me to other families because they are busy reaping the tobacco in their fields.  It is difficult to visit others without feeling like I am abandoning my family.

As this week comes to a close, I am beginning to feel more at home, both within Lozovo as a whole and within my host family.  However, the thrill of a ride is the ability to have highs and lows.  Despite all of these initial struggles, I try to keep in mind that everybody trips.  Success is not only achieved by rising after each fall, but by starting slowly to build the strength, confidence, and endurance.  My pace will quicken, but I do not mind starting slowly for now.  As they say in Macedonian, Ima vreme (there is time).

Monday, September 23, 2013

Lozovo!


So the Orientation Week for Pre-Service Training has come and gone, and all of us MAK18 volunteers have been placed with our homestay families for the remainder of PST.  All 35 of us were divided between 4 towns- Romanovce, Kratovo, Lozovo, and Probishtip.  Those who are learning both Albanian and Macedonian were placed in Romanovce.  Lozovo hosts all Community Development volunteers, Kratovo hosts all TEFL volunteers, and Probishtip hosts a mixture of both.  As the title of this post describes, my site placement for PST is Lozovo!

I was hoping for Lozovo and was stoked to be place in this town.  Lozovo is a town of about 1,000 people (my host brother-in-law says that there are five hundred houses in Lozovo).  Despite its small size, it is the capital of the municipality.  The staple crops of Lozovo are wine and tobacco, so I call the town the Sin City of villages. 

The last day of Orientation was Saturday, September 21.  All of the MAK18 volunteers boarded two separate buses to take us to our towns/ villages.  Our bus dropped off the Romanovce group before heading south to Lozovo.  As we drove south and away from Kumanovo (the biggest city in the area), we abandoned the urban sprawl for rolling hills and bucolic surroundings.  I am excited to live in a small town for the next ten weeks since I will likely live in a larger town or city during the remainder of my service after PST since I am assigned to community development work.  

Our families greeted all 8 of the Lozovo volunteers at the main restaurant/ banquet hall in town.  My host mother, Jagoda (pronounced YA-go-da) welcomed me with her grandson Milan.  After we enjoyed a few beverages at the restaurant, Jagoda, Milan, and I walked back home to meet the rest of the family.

Welcomed by my host mother, Jagoda, and my host nephew, Milan.

Jagoda is helping to cut Vedran's (her grandson) hair for the first time!


Jagoda (the name means strawberry in Macedonian) and Ile (EE-le), my host mother and father, live in a beautiful one-story house on the main road, Marshall Tito Street.  They have another house attached to the main house, and they use the basement of the house to prepare foods (for example Ajvar and tobacco; expect another post about these later!) and to store their preserves.  They have a son about my age, Aleksander, who lives in the capital, Skopje, and he works as a banker.  Their daughter, Emilia, is married to a sergeant in the Macedonian army (Blagoj), and they have two sons, Milan and Vedran.  Emilia works in town as a nurse.

The yard of the house is surrounded by a plethora of vegetables and crops that Jagoda and Ile grow.  There is a large plot of tobacco in the back that they are just beginning to harvest.  They also have a few vines of grapes (with which they make their homemade brandy, or раќа, pronounced Ra-kya).  They also grow tons of peppers, squash, apples, cabbage, leeks, beans, and so much more!  They have a dog, who is tied up in the yard, and a cat, which I have not met yet.

I doubt I need to mention it, but my host parents are such a welcoming pair!  Ile showed his excitement by immediately bringing out his раќа when I arrived at home.  We had a large lunch, which consisted of roasted peppers, chicken with rice, bread, and Makedonska salata (sald with tomatoes, peppers, and onions).  Jagoda and I have so much in common when it comes to food.  We both love hot peppers and beans, so she is excited about the meals she plans to cook for the next few days.

After lunch, Blagoj, Jagoda’s son-in-law, escorted me on a run on the country road.  The scenery on that road was amazingly beautiful, and I look forward to using it for my daily run over the next ten weeks.  When I returned, I showered quickly and we were visited by Ile’s mother and sister.

After a light dinner at night, Jagoda, Ile, and I talked some more before finally heading to bed.  I have internet here, so I hope to keep constant updates and contact with those back in the States.

I already love my host family and village, and I am excited for the adventures that await in Lozovo.

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

The Struggle in Tetovo


The first week of Pre-Service Training will take place over the next 5 days (until Saturday) in Tetovo, a city just west of Skopje near the mountains.  Tetovo is the “unofficial Albanian capital” of Macedonia, and based on what most of us have seen so far, that description seems about right.

We are staying at the Woodrow Wilson school, a private school with lodging that predominantly caters to Albanian students seeking an American-style education.  Walking through the school, one gets the sense of American culture being imposed on/ celebrated by the students and faculty here.  For example, as I write this post in the school cafeteria, I am staring at a wall smattered with pictures of American celebrities, including Eddie Murphy, John Wayne, Marilyn Monroe, Eliza Dushku, and Vin Diesel.  Macedonian culture and language seems to be excluded in the curriculum, as only Albanian, English, and German offered at the school.  However, the school did want to clarify to all of Peace Corps that it is a “multi-ethnic” school and is open to both Albanians and Macedonians.

Our Welcome Meal at Wilson HS
My room during the first week of PST (shared with two others).  It is a dormitory room that usually houses younger students at the school.

View of the mountains from my room

View of the front of the campus of Wilson HS

My first breakfast in Macedonia.  The freshest tomatoes I have ever eaten, pate, hard boiled egg, toast, plum, and coffee.


Tetovo is a city with a metro-area population of about 65,000 people, and around 55% of its population are Albanian.  It lies just east of the Shar Mountains which mark the border between Macedonia and Kosovo (which is primarily Albanian).  According to our guides, it is a thriving center for business and education, but is often neglected by the Macedonian government due to its large and influential Albanian population.  Tetovo is also a major college town with two colleges hosting over 15,000 students.

As Yugoslavia broke apart, most of the fighting took place between Croatia, Bosnia, and Serbia.  Macedonia was spared much of the ethnic fighting.  However, as the strife in Kosovo and Bosnia began to settle, the refugee situation in Kosovo and Bosnia spilled over into Macedonia.  Thus began the 2001 insurgency in Macedonia between the Macedonian government and the Albanian National Liberation Army.

Our group never received a formal lecture on the insurgency, but much of what I learned can be found at the Wikipedia page (yes, pretty lazy of me to provide a link to Wikipedia, but the article is organized well).  According to the article, most of the fighting took place between the NLA and the Macedonian army, though many civilians were injured in the crossfire, and over 76,000 people were displaced by the fighting.  The fighting did not last for more than a few months, and a peace agreement was signed in Ohrid ending the conflict.  The Ohrid Agreement ultimately granted additional rights to ethnic-Albanian citizens, and it granted Albanian an official language status within Macedonia.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Tetovo 

A long documentary (in Macedonian) is also available on Youtube, and you may watch the video through the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUfgBoMt1Yc

As you will learn from these links, much of the fighting took place in the mountains, from which the Liberation Army fought and hid from the Macedonian army.

Ethnic tensions still exist today between Albanians and Macedonians.  As far as I could tell, it is difficult to distinguish between Albanians and Macedonians in the street.  I sometimes feel nervous speaking Macedonian to the people in Tetovo since I am not sure whether they are Albanian or Macedonian, and if Albanian, if they can or are willing to speak Macedonian.

Despite the struggle between these two groups, much of our Peace Corps group has experienced an internal struggle regarding our site placements.  Most of us will be placed in a Macedonian community and speak Macedonian with our host families and colleagues.  However, a few of us will be placed in dual culture communities, and this subset will be required to learn BOTH Albanian and Macedonian. 

The list of those pre-selected to join the dual culture program was shared with our group today.  I was not pre-selected, which is fine by me.  I would have been thrilled to learn both Albanian and Macedonian, but I was not adamant on joining these communities.  Additionally, there are opportunities to work with NGOs or municipal governments that try to bridge the Albanian and Macedonian communities, even though these would not require one to learn Albanian.

The site placement for our Pre-Service Training will be announced on Friday, and we all anticipate the next step.  Until then, I am trying to enjoy Tetovo as much as I can.