Monday, April 21, 2014

Христос Воскресe

“Christ is risen!”  The great Christian holiday has come and gone in Macedonia, and I am astounded at how celebrated the holiday is here.  Many Macedonians have adapted a more secular approach to Christianity due to years of Communist rule, but many of the traditions and values had not died over the decades.

Although Orthodox Christians here are expected to fast like their Catholic brethren, many decide to forgo this part of the tradition and instead decide to only celebrate the other parts.  The Easter celebrations started for my host family on Good Friday.  Luckily for me, Friday and Monday were non-working days, so it gave me some time to relax and unwind from the weeks of preparation for our latest recruitment for my organization. 

I joined my host family on Good Friday to the church near the center.  When we arrived, we purchased candles a lit them for our special intentions.  Then we stood in line for a blessing from the pope, kissed the cross, and exchanged clothing, eggs, or flowers for a blessed flower.

Easter Eggs!

My host family and me on Good Friday



Saturday was a day for celebration, especially for the youth in Macedonia.  If I had to compare Holy Saturday to a holiday in the USA, I would compare it to Black Wednesday, or the Wednesday before Thanksgiving.  That is because many students and young workers return home from college or work (read: Skopje) to celebrate Easter Sunday with their families.  However, Saturday night is sanctioned for celebrations with their friends at bars and clubs in their hometown center.

As I was getting my hair cut on Saturday afternoon, I had originally planned to have a peaceful evening in Prilep before Easter.  However, my barber, who is quite young and is the brother of one of the students with which I work, invited me to meet him in the center to celebrate that night.  I had a “Fuck it, I am in the Peace Corps and can only experience the cultural opportunities for a couple of years” moment and promised that I would meet him that night.  We met at his salon at 11PM and got liquored up before heading to the first bar.  The center of Prilep was crowded with young people, and I wondered when we would all head to the church to recognize Christ’s rise from the dead.  At about a quarter to midnight, almost all of the young people left the bar in droves and headed to the church of their choice.

An Orthodox church on Holy Saturday


Maud is ready for some cracking

Parting with my Easter egg

We all waited outside the church equipped with candles and Easter eggs.  A priest chanted over loud speakers part of the scriptures, and as the bells rang we were notified that Christ had risen.  At that moment, the young people took out their eggs and cracked them onto others’.  Supposedly if your egg cracks your friend’s, you will have luck for the year, or something like that.  I was unable to participate in this tradition because I had given the egg my host mother gave me to my friend from France, Maud.  Afterwards, everyone returned to the clubs to drink and dance their night away.


Preparing to crack the eggs




On Sunday, my host mother roasted a lamb and served it with various sweets and side dishes.  The lamb was succulent, and I was lucky to be invited to such a feast.  A few guests came by to “na gosti”, and we talked until the sun set.  It is on holidays like these that I feel lucky to have a host family like mine to welcome me to their own traditions and hospitality.  However, starting early tomorrow morning, I leave the Macedonian traditions behind and head east for a conference in Bulgaria. 

My host mother and her culinary work of art


Lamb for Easter supper

Sunday, April 20, 2014

My Opinion on Homestays

Even before I begin to describe the policy on homestays in Peace Corps Macedonia, I will publicly announce that I cherish my living situation.  My homestay family is (using the American vocabulary to its fullest extent) the bee’s knees.  I am also lucky to have my own floor to myself, with which I can escape into my own privacy when I like and feel like I am living in my own apartment.  I have been writing this post for the past week now, and as I finish it on Easter, I am reminded how great a homestay family can be. 

The Policy on Homestays
MAK18s are the first group that is required to live with a homestay.  The former country director decided that he would implement the policy requiring all to live in this situation.  PCVs in other countries also live in homestays, but I do not know of any other country that requires all of its volunteers to live with a homestay family.

There are clearly some benefits to making volunteers live with a homestay.  Living with HCNs every day helps with the integration process.  We are forced to speak the local language with our families, are invited to participate in the cultural holidays and traditions, and if we strike the right deal, enjoy the local cuisine.  We may also be accepted into the community more easily, as neighbors and villagers will recognize us as the Americans that live with this or that person.  This in turn leads to an increase in volunteer safety, as the chance of somebody breaking and entering into one’s home is decreased with the presence of a homestay family.  Peace Corps Macedonia advertises this as the major success of the homestay policy, with hopes that incidents of robbery, assault, and rape will be diminished.

But the homestay policy also reduces the cost of the Peace Corps program in Macedonia.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, utilities like electricity are expensive, and homestays reduce the expenses that are allocated for covering the utility bills of PCVs.

Where the Letter and the Spirit Do Not Meet
Much of what the homestay policy in PC Macedonia hopes to accomplish does not always work in practice, although the theory may be sound.  As I mentioned in a previous post, more than a handful of the current MAK18s are either not happy with their homestay situation, or they had switched homestays in the past few months.  Many times, it is due to the fact that homestay families do not understand the idea of their role but instead hope to extract as much money as possible from the volunteers or the Peace Corps.

For example, one host family started to charge a volunteer for utility costs that clearly did not add up.  In another situation, a family charged a volunteer half of their monthly allowance for food costs, and they basically hid all of the food from her so that she could not eat or cook on her own when she wanted to.  Negotiating money tends to be a major issue.  One volunteer was tired of eating similar soups all day, so he decided to stop paying for food and decided to eat on his own.  His host mother became furious by the sudden loss of additional income flow, and in return told him that she would stop doing his laundry or cleaning his room.

The most surprising story that I heard was about an older volunteer who was promised his own floor for the living arrangements.  He had seen the arrangements in November during site visits, but when he returned in December, the host son (in his early 20s) had inhabited the promised space and began to renovate it.  When the volunteer approached the son, their argument became heated, and the argument almost deteriorated into fisticuffs.

Now these are just the horror stories, and for every terrible homestay situation, there are probably 1.5 tremendous experiences.  But all of these situations have a similar theme- when are host families acting as families and when are they acting as renters?  Many of these instances illustrate an arrangement where families treat the PCVs like tenants.  In most cases, this would be fine if both stuck to the contract arranged by Peace Corps.  But when a volunteer only has one room to call his own, and when he has no control over food purchases, utilities, or the preparation of meals, these volunteers are often taken advantage of by their host families.

In other cases, families and volunteers observe their side of the contract, but their personalities or stages in life just do not match.  Volunteers and host families are only human, and therefore conflicting personalities can sometimes turn into tumultuous homestay situations.  Many of the volunteers who switched homestays had found families that were much more compatible. 

While the volunteers dwell on our own problems with the homestay policy, we often forget to think of which burdens we are placing on the homestay family.  Sure, at first they are excited to have us.  But over time it is challenging to have a volunteer live under the same roof for two years.  While many of us are assured that we are included as a part of a family, in the end we are strangers who are inhabiting a family’s home for two years.  I could not imagine what it would be like to have a foreigner live in my house for two years, especially if the volunteer happens to be the same age or older than my parents, or if they are married volunteers.

My Two Cents
Before arriving in Macedonia, I learned that our whole group would eventually live with a homestay family.  At first I was a bit perturbed by this policy, but I was more excited to be a part of the Peace Corps, so I accepted the situation with good faith.  Living with a homestay family during PST was vital, and in no way do I argue against the policy for the first eleven weeks for training purposes.    

But my major concern with the homestay policy here is the lack of choice.  Given my somewhat libertarian streak, I find issues with a policy that prevents individual volunteers from maximizing their own utility.  But Macedonia is not the only country that I find issue with regarding this policy.  The policy that Macedonia used to have, and which other countries still practice, randomly assigns volunteers to homestays or apartments based on which site they are assigned to.  As far as I know, there is no ability for a volunteer to express interest in living with a family or apartment before they are assigned to their site.  Thus, the policies are not “fair,” since volunteers are placed in living situations that they may not prefer.  

Living in a homestay may also inhibit a volunteer’s opportunity to be effective in their primary projects.  Expectations or duties from the host family may sap a volunteer’s energy or time that he or she could have spent concentrating on the work at their organization or school.  Also, many volunteers feel that they lose part of their identity when living with homestay families.  Volunteers often feel that they need to change the way the carry out their daily lives, losing a part of their identity.  For example, many female volunteers in Macedonia who live with Albanian families are subjected to the gender culture of Albanian families.  From what I heard, gender roles in these families typically expect the women to carry out all household tasks without question.  On the other hand, men are not expected to participate in the household chores, including cooking or cleaning. 

But as I mentioned before, these problems seem trifling to what other volunteers faced in the past or in other parts of the world.  For example, while dining in Skopje last week, our country director told us a story of her service in Liberia.  One time, her closest PCV neighbor who lived hours away by car had invited two male PCVs to her hut to hang out for the night.  However, a local’s jealousy turned to fury, and not long after he entered her home and chopped her to pieces with a machete.  This story illustrates how PCV problems have generally become less serious throughout the years, many times due to policies like the homestay policy in Macedonia.


In the end, I try to stay clear of the public debates regarding this policy because I consider myself one of the luckiest volunteers.  Not only do I have my own space so that I can take control of my daily habits and occasionally escape into privacy, but I have the nicest homestay family I could ever ask for.  Overall, I am disappointed by the mandatory homestay rule because I believe that volunteers should have a choice of how they live in the country in which they serve.  Another volunteer put it well: sure, we gain the benefits of integration by living with a family for our two years of service.  But being forced to live with a homestay can make some volunteers feel like they are students on a study abroad trip.  This can turn the focus of this experience to cultural exchange versus developing ourselves professionally or making a lasting impact for development in the country that we serve.  Even though I publicly disagree with the policy, I also publicly recognize that, without the homestay policy, I would have never had the opportunity to meet such an amazing family or have the ideal living situation.  But not everybody can be as lucky as me!

Friday, April 11, 2014

Technical In-Service Training

I only noticed now that it has been since March since I last posted on this blog.  Radio silence from me at this point means that I am busier at site, which is a good thing!  But I do have a few posts to include on this blog in order to keep you up with what is happening here in Macedonia.  I guess it is easier to start from the recent events and go back from there.

This past week was sort of a reunion for all of the Peace Corps volunteers from the MAK-18 group.  Starting Monday, the Community Development volunteers and our counterparts were required to come to Skopje to attend Technical In-Service Training.  We were all required to be in the capital until Tuesday, when our counterparts were able to leave and when the TEFL volunteers arrived for our volunteer meeting on Wednesday.  Then these past two days, the TEFLs had their technical training.  Given such a complicated schedule, I applaud the PC team in Macedonia for organizing this.

I posted the schedule of the event below, but as you can tell, a lot of what we discussed was aimed at either grant writing or completing reports that will “gauge” our impact in Macedonia.  Such forms include the VRF (Volunteer Response Form) which will provide qualitative and quantitative data regarding our individual work for the PC staff in Macedonia and for the US government back home.



Overall, the training was much more useful than I had thought it would be weeks before.  I worried that the whole seminar would be a “bitch session” where volunteers publicly lamented about their individual situations.  But having our counterparts at the first two days of the sessions probably inhibited such a scenario.  The conference seemed most successful for those who had their counterparts present, since Peace Corps drove much of what PCVs tell their counterparts at work.  For example, what organizations should and should not do when applying for certain grants.  Or how to complete our reports together that best measures our combined work. 

Eventually, as soon as the counterparts left and all of the volunteers were together on Wednesday, we discussed the most sensitive subject regarding PC Macedonia- host families.  Each session turned to the problems pertaining to the requirement that 100% of volunteers in Macedonia must live with host families.  Just to substantiate how problematic this topic seems to be, about 7 people are unhappy with their homestay situation, and an additional 7 had changed homestays in the past 2 months (out of 33 volunteers present at the conference).  But I leave my discussion on home stays for another post (soon to come).

My good feelings were validated during the Mental Health Session when we were asked to stand somewhere in the room, placing ourselves on a spectrum of how we felt about our experience in PC Macedonia.  Luckily, nobody stood near the sign that said “I am ready to go home.”  However, only 4 of us (including me) stood near “I am starting to see the impact of my work here.”  The four of us gushed about how much we were enjoying our times in Macedonia.  Publicly saying how happy I was helped me realize how great of a situation I was placed into and built up over the past few months.  I am happy for many reasons, but I am mostly happy because I am busy and my work is actually making a difference.  Maybe I am a bit neurotic, but I enjoyed that, at multiple times, I was late for sessions because I needed to plan a seminar for this weekend with my counterpart.

Of course, much of this can change over the year, especially given the difficult situation with AIESEC Macedonia.  But until then I will continue to invest in my hard work.

I also want to comment that each day during the sessions, I was exhausted because on average I probably achieved only 5 hours of sleep each night during the conference.  Seeing volunteers in such a group for the first time since PST was refreshing, and I did not want to miss an opportunity to discuss and learn from as each night our conversations dragged into the late hours. 


Finally, the last organized event for the CD volunteers was a dinner with the staff.  This dinner was special for us since the rule that prohibited staff and PCVs to drink together was recently repealed.  I was lucky to draw the number that allowed me to dine with the training manager, Evelina, and the Country Director, Corey.  Eventually the conversation steered toward, you guessed it, homestays.  But it was a great bookend to a weekend full of useful information and reunions.

Brian, his counterpart from Negotino, Ted, and me

Dinner with staff on our last night during IST